How to Prevent Brick Deterioration: Proven Strategies for Long-Lasting Masonry

Brick is one of the most durable building materials available, but it is not maintenance-free. Learning how to prevent brick deterioration comes down to controlling moisture, maintaining mortar joints, and catching small problems before they become expensive structural failures.

Key Takeaways

• Water infiltration and repeated freeze-thaw cycles are major causes of brick damage, especially in cold climates like the Midwest.
• A breathable, penetrating water repellent may protect suitable brick without trapping damaging moisture behind a surface film.
• Mortar joints usually weather before brick, so timely tuckpointing or repointing is one of the most important masonry maintenance investments.
• Clean gutters at least twice a year and make sure the ground slopes away from the foundation.
• Addressing small repairs early can help prevent much larger masonry repairs later.
• Inspect chimneys, porches, and exterior masonry every year so deterioration can be corrected while it is still localized.

Why Brick Deteriorates Faster Than Many Homeowners Expect

Brick has a reputation for permanence, and in many ways that reputation is earned. Brick structures can last well over a century. But the same material that survives for decades can show serious damage after several harsh winters when water is allowed to enter and maintenance is deferred.

The primary culprit is moisture. The National Park Service identifies water and freeze-thaw action among the common causes of masonry deterioration. When water enters the porous surface of a brick or mortar joint and freezes, it expands by about 9%. As temperatures rise, it thaws and contracts. Repeated cycles place physical stress on the masonry.

The result can be spalling—the flaking, cracking, or chipping of the brick face. Spalling does not typically result from a single freeze. It develops across repeated winters, which is why homeowners may miss the early signs. By the time visible damage appears, deterioration may have been progressing beneath the surface for years.

Mortar compounds the problem. Mortar joints are generally softer and more vapor-permeable than the bricks they hold together, so they often weather first. Crumbling or receding mortar creates pathways for water, accelerating damage to the brick itself. Mortar maintenance is therefore more than cosmetic—it helps the wall manage moisture and movement.

The Role of Moisture in Brick Damage

How Water Gets In

Water can enter brick masonry through several pathways:

• Cracked or eroded mortar joints
• Porous or damaged brick faces
• Overflowing or clogged gutters that direct water against walls
• Poor site drainage that allows water to pool at the foundation
• Defective flashing around windows, chimneys, and roof penetrations

Each entry point can often be reduced with routine maintenance. Moisture control also matters indoors: joint guidance from NIOSH and the EPA explains that moisture management is central to protecting building materials and indoor air quality.

Breathable vs. Non-Breathable Treatments

One common mistake is applying the wrong coating. A non-breathable film can prevent moisture already inside the wall from escaping. In a cold climate, trapped moisture may worsen freeze-thaw deterioration. Before applying any water repellent to older or historic masonry, confirm that the product is appropriate for the wall assembly and existing materials.

A breathable, penetrating silane- or siloxane-based water repellent works differently from a surface film. On a suitable wall, it reduces liquid-water absorption while still allowing water vapor to pass through. Think of it as a weather-resistant jacket for masonry rather than plastic wrap.

These treatments are not appropriate for every brick wall and do not replace repairs to failed mortar, flashing, caps, or drainage. When specified, they may require reapplication every five to ten years depending on the product, climate, exposure, and substrate. A professional masonry contractor in Libertyville can evaluate the wall before recommending a treatment.

Mortar Maintenance and Repointing

Why Mortar Fails First

Mortar is intended to accommodate movement and weathering before the surrounding masonry. Replacing mortar is far less disruptive than replacing large areas of brick. The problem begins when deteriorated joints are ignored long enough for water to reach deeper into the wall and attack the brick faces.

Visible signs that mortar needs attention include:

• Joints recessed more than about a quarter inch behind the brick face
• Crumbling or powdery mortar that loosens when gently pressed
• Cracks along joint lines, especially at corners and above openings
• Recurring white efflorescence or salt deposits on the wall

What Repointing Involves

Repointing involves removing deteriorated mortar to a sound depth, cleaning the joint, and installing compatible replacement mortar. When performed correctly, it restores the joint profile and helps the wall shed water while preserving its ability to dry.

Mortar joint service life varies widely with exposure, workmanship, and material compatibility. Some joints may perform for several decades, while chimneys, parapets, and heavily exposed elevations can require attention sooner. Matching the replacement mortar to the original masonry is critical. A modern high-strength Portland cement mortar that is too hard for older, softer brick can contribute to cracking and spalling.

For homeowners in the Chicago area, Delta Masonry & Tuckpointing provides professional mortar-joint restoration suited to local brick and freeze-thaw conditions.

Drainage and Site Grading

Gutters Are the First Line of Defense

Overflowing or poorly functioning gutters are a common source of concentrated water on residential masonry. When a gutter pulls away, clogs with debris, or cannot handle runoff, roof water may spill directly against the brick.

Clean gutters at least twice a year—typically in late fall after leaves have dropped and again in spring before heavy rains. Downspouts should discharge far enough from the building that water does not flow back toward the foundation. Extensions are often more effective than short splash blocks when the surrounding grade is flat.

Ground Slope and Foundation Protection

The ground immediately around a home should slope away from the foundation. A commonly used target is about one inch per foot for the first six feet where site conditions allow, but drainage improvements should account for property lines, walkways, soil, and local requirements.

Standing water against a brick wall does more than stain the surface. It can saturate masonry and the adjacent soil, worsening freeze-thaw exposure and foundation moisture. If the yard has settled and now slopes toward the building, regrading or another professionally designed drainage correction may be worthwhile. The EPA also offers practical ideas for redirecting downspouts and reducing residential runoff.

Avoiding Chemical Damage

Deicing salts are a particular concern in cold-weather regions. Chloride salts can enter the pores of brick and mortar. As moisture moves and evaporates, salt crystallization can generate pressure within the pore structure and contribute to scaling or spalling.

Limit deicing salts near brick steps, walkways, and the base of exterior walls. Use the smallest effective quantity, prevent piles from collecting against masonry, and consider traction aids or products specifically identified as compatible with the surrounding materials. In spring, follow product and masonry-cleaning guidance before attempting to rinse residue away.

Regular Inspections: The Investment That Pays for Itself

What to Check Each Year

You do not need a professional for every part of an annual visual check, but you do need a systematic approach. Look at:

• Chimney crowns and caps: These horizontal surfaces receive heavy weather exposure and can direct water into the masonry below.
• Window and door lintels: Steel lintels may rust and expand, cracking or displacing the brick above an opening.
• Weep holes: These gaps near the base of brick veneer walls are intentional drainage points and should not be blocked with mortar or debris.
• Efflorescence: White salt deposits indicate that moisture is moving through the masonry.
• Steps, porches, and columns: Horizontal surfaces collect water and often show early freeze-thaw damage.

Historic buildings deserve particular care because their bricks and mortars may be softer than modern materials. Improper repairs can cause irreversible damage. The National Park Service’s Preservation Briefs provide guidance on material-appropriate masonry repair, while Delta offers historic masonry restoration for properties that require compatible materials and techniques.

Brick Deterioration Prevention: Quick Reference

The costs below are broad planning ranges only. Access, wall area, building height, material condition, location, and required repairs can change the price substantially.

Things to Know

• Spalling develops gradually across repeated wetting and freeze-thaw cycles. Visible damage may be the result of deterioration that began years earlier.
• Non-breathable coatings can trap moisture. Any water-repellent treatment should be compatible with the wall and applied only after defects are corrected.
• Mortar is generally intended to be more sacrificial than brick. Repoint deteriorated joints before water reaches and damages the brick faces.
• High-strength Portland cement mortar can damage older, softer brick. Replacement mortar should be compatible in hardness, permeability, color, and texture.
• Weep holes in brick veneer walls are drainage features, not defects. Blocking them traps moisture in the wall cavity.
• A contractor familiar with Midwest freeze-thaw conditions can select repair materials and techniques suited to the local climate.

Ready to Protect Your Masonry Before Winter?

The best time to address deteriorated mortar, drainage defects, and treatment needs is before freezing weather arrives. Delta Masonry & Tuckpointing can assess your brick exterior, chimney, steps, or other masonry and explain what needs attention now and what can be monitored.

Call (847) 713-1648 or request a free masonry inspection.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I reseal my brick exterior?

Breathable penetrating water repellents may need reapplication every five to ten years, depending on the product, sun exposure, weather conditions, and brick porosity. Not every wall should be sealed, so have existing damage and the wall assembly evaluated first. A simple water-absorption observation may be useful, but it does not replace product-specific guidance or a professional assessment.

What is the difference between tuckpointing and repointing?

Repointing is the general process of removing deteriorated mortar and installing compatible replacement mortar. Historically, tuckpointing is a decorative technique that uses two contrasting colors to create a fine joint line.

In everyday use—especially around Chicago—the term “tuckpointing” often refers to standard repointing. Both types of work depend on proper joint preparation and a mortar compatible with the original masonry.

Can I apply brick sealant myself?

A small, accessible area may be manageable with the correct penetrating product, but sealing over cracked mortar or active deterioration does not correct the underlying problem and may trap moisture.

Large walls, historic masonry, and surfaces with existing damage should be professionally assessed first. Repairs to mortar, flashing, caps, and drainage should be completed before any treatment is considered.

How do I know if my chimney needs repointing?

Warning signs include mortar that crumbles when pressed, deeply recessed joints, visible cracks along joint lines, loose masonry, or recurring efflorescence.

Chimneys are exposed on multiple sides and often deteriorate sooner than sheltered walls. Inspect the chimney crown, cap, and flashing as well, because defects there can direct water into the brick below.

Does brick deterioration affect home resale value?

Visible spalling, cracked mortar, displacement, and moisture staining can reduce curb appeal and raise concerns during a buyer’s inspection. Correcting the moisture source and completing appropriate repairs before listing can prevent masonry conditions from complicating a sale.

The Bottom Line on How to Prevent Brick Deterioration

Understanding how to prevent brick deterioration is fundamentally about water management: keeping bulk water out, redirecting it away, allowing the wall to dry, and repairing the pathways it uses to enter.

Breathable treatments where appropriate, clear gutters, positive grading, timely repointing, careful winter maintenance, and regular inspections are straightforward measures, but they require consistency. A localized mortar repair or an afternoon of gutter maintenance costs far less than rebuilding a wall after widespread failure. Inspect your brickwork every year and bring in a qualified contractor before deterioration reaches the brick face itself.